The Needle and Amethyst Pillar

The Needle and Amethyst Pillar

The Cairngorms are a vast plateau, with big corries surrounded by steep walls of granite. These cliffs, dark, gloomy, and North facing, are a paradise for climbers. The scale and remoteness of the cliffs offer a level of commitment matched by only a handful of crags in the UK.

Certainly in the Northern Cairngorms, one of the greatest routes is the Needle. Campbell’s eye for route finding was quite special. The Shelterstone cliff had been for years deemed impenetrable, with only a small, and rarely repeated VS working its way up the edge of it. Campbell did no such thing. Starting directly below a great split in the skyline, he initially aimed straight for the notch. The two initial pitches are straight up. Towards the central parts of the face, Campbell found a series of connecting pitches which allowed passage through an otherwise impenetrable section of rock. Eventually, you’re reach the mighty needle crack, a 40m off-width crack on wonderful rock. As you fling yourself over the lip in a sorry mixture of relief and disappointment that the spectacular grovel is over, you realise only one pitch bars you from the summit. An easy scramble, into a tight squeeze. Then, once you have lost all dignity squeezing through the soggy eye of the needle, you are reborn through a whole in the ground in the plateau.

The needle had been on our to do list for a while, and when we saw a weather window, we jumped at the opportunity. We forged a plan, we’d go up for 2 days, camp high on the Plateau, and spend one day climbing on Corrie Sputan Derag, and the next day attempt the needle.

Being accustomed to the warmth and comfort of alpine huts, the cold came as a shock. We pitched the tent (luckily we’d opted for the 4 season model), and threw ourselves inside.

“I’m fucking starving, let’s get dinner on” I said 

Lara agreed. We set up the stove, I’d just bought a set of new pots. Exciting!

“Pass me the lighter Oscar” Lara said.

“Erm….”

I patted my pockets frantically – surely I didn’t forget a lighter.

“Maybe you have one?”

Lara searched her bags, but we both knew that we would once again be enjoying an uncooked dinner.

I had tortellini, which made for a surprisingly pleasant meal uncooked. Lara had instant noodles, which were far worse. We lacked the patience to soak them properly, so she added her sauce and crunched away. Pretty grim!

We awoke the next day – hungry. We had some overnight oats, which although pleasant, aren’t what you want when it’s only just above zero! We hoped to flag down a hiker on the walk over to Corrie Sputan Derag, and beg, borrow, or even steal some matches.

We walked over Ben Macdui, and as we descended down towards Loch Etchecan, we saw a hiker with a wonderful dog.

This hiker, Ray, was one of the loveliest people I’ve ever met in the hills. He gave us some matches, despite then being hurried at the bottom of our bag, and told us about him. He’s spent 20 years working in Mountain Rescue down in the Peaks, but worked as a lecturer at Sheffield uni as a day job. His dog was about to do their first Munro! He wished us well, and we both were left glowing at what a genuinely lovely bloke we’d just met. Happy days!!

Now, onto the climbing. The first route was Ametheyst Pillar, a 3* HVS. The first pitch was my first trad climb in the UK in a couple of months, and it was a bit of a reminder of how fiddly uk trad can be. There was no worthwhile gear for 10 or so m, then the rest of the pitch had plenty, but it was all a pain in the arse to place. The second pitch was an enjoyable series of flakes, well protected to a large ledge. The final pitch looked desperate from below, a pull through a bulge with overhead gear proved to be an interesting crux, then quickly you gain an enjoyable hand crack which plops you out onto the plateau. A highly enjoyable route.

Next, we set out sights to the other classic of the crag: grey slab. The climbing on this route was good, if not excessively memorable. The corner was wet and greasy which definitely took away from the experience, but the positions were highly enjoyable. I thought the route was quite difficult for HS, and  an easy VS would have been more fair.

We topped out and walked back to the tents. I began to have my usual evening freak out. I expressed my doubts to Lara, who as ever was sympathetic but encouraging that we’d be fine (and she was of course, right!) I doubted that the rock would be dry, and that we’d be fast enough to get the route done in a reasonable amount of time. We put a message in a yummick group chat and we’re advised that it goes in the damp…I guess we would have to give it beans tomorrow and see how it turned out.

We awoke early, and we’re disappointed by how dewy of a night it was. The ground was sopping. Surely the route would be wet…

Despite our doubts, we walked across the plateau in beautiful morning light. The crag was glistening: not a good sign. I was convinced we should go elsewhere : Crimson Slabs would be dry, and we’d surely get a day of climbing in there. Lara, was determined it was worth a shot, so we pressed on.

We reached the base of the route – it looked pretty much dry except for the upper reaches. Given the only bold pitch was the second (and luckily that was Lara’s lead), we agreed that we would be able to make progress on the damp upper reaches of the crag. We each had a few grades in hand, and the opportunity was too good to miss.

The initial pitch was rambling and straightforward to a good ledge. Many people reported finding this bold – I didn’t think it was  spaced but bomber gear was all around, and honestly the climbing was sufficiently straightforward that very little was required.

I built a belay, weary not to use any kit that could be useful on the crux pitch. Lara arrived and racked up, staring up at the headwall above. After consulting the topo she set off, enjoying the climbing, which looked bold and hard. As Lara quested on up, we were both getting attacked my a swarm of midges. I desperately wrapped Lara’s jacket around my ankles in an attempt to shield them from the hordes, it did not work. I can only imagine how unpleasant it would have been for Lara: contemplating poorly protected 5b moves whilst getting attacked by the wee beasties. She arrived at the belay after an utterly superb lead. 

I followed as quickly as I could. The climbing was difficult, not loads of gear and lots of top end 5a low end 5b moves which had gear well below your feet. South of the border, I feel this pitch would have gotten E2.

Then, it was my block of leads. The next pitch was a straightforward VS romp to reach the base of the second crux pitch. Crucially, this belay was no longer getting midged. Great success!

The second 5b pitch was pretty straightforward. A crack with good gear led to an awkward ledge shuffle. Then you arrange a few pieces, and pull through a minor bulge. Although perhaps marginally more physically taxing than the crux of the second pitch, the gear is bomber and at waist level, and it’s over very quickly. Before you know it, you’re at the belay. It felt reminiscent of the crux moves of Salluard route on Pointe Aldolphene Rey, only better protected, easier and not at altitude! 

Lara took over here, leading to the base of the crack for thin fingers. A lot of people we know have gotten a wee bit lost on this pitch, but you can actually see the crack for thin fingers (and the massive ledge just below it) from the belay. Lara dispatched this quickly and skilfully, and we agreed to have a wee lunch break here.

Sandwiches eaten, Lara pondered the crack for thin fingers. It looked desperate! Arranging some gear (thank you black totem!), she lay backed the crack before lunging for the sloping ledges above the famous lose ‘thank god jug’ that tempts all climbers. The rest of the pitch is a straightforward romp.  You can see the fantastic looking corner pitches of the steeple to your left: these look frankly brilliant, Steeple must be done next season!

Then, it was my block of leads. A simple VS approach pitch led to the base of needle crack which was sopping wet. It had to be done…

Wedging my arse into the crack, I thrutched and grovelled my way up the pitch. The gear was good, and the climbing excellent and engaging. It was a good mix of technical bridging (less enjoyable in the wet), and desperate thrutching (is this ever enjoyable?). 30m later – I stood atop needle crack. I brought Lara up, and as she set off on the final scramble, I pondered the view across Loch Avon.

The Cairngorms is a deeply special place to me – so many of my formative mountain moments have been had on these monolithic peaks. I remember years ago in London discussing this mountains with my Dad, in an almost a revered tone. The idea of being on the Cairngorm Plateau even just a hillwalker was somewhat terrifying. The first time I visited I skipped off school and we drove up from London. We spent two nights wild camping and bagging the Munros around the Northern Cairngorms. It was a life changing trip – never had I experienced mountains so big and wild. I was in awe. My Dad especially loved the Cairngorms…he’d always update me with Chris Townsend’s condition report before I went to school, and would revel in any book written about this range. Climbing this route almost exactly one year after he died was very special to me in a way that isn’t  particularly easy to put in to words. 

“On Belay Oscar!”

I scrambled up the easy ground, and grovelled through the tight chimney at the top (the eye of the needle!). I greeted Lara with a hug. It had been one of the routes we’d both been desperate to do – but it felt so unachievable. Not only had we done it – but it hadn’t even been an epic. Just a genuinely brilliant day out, and a really ace trip.