The thaw over the last week had decimated almost all the remaining snow – leaving the Northern Corries depressingly black. A brief midweek snow had revived things a little, and put things just about into condition. Psyche was high – with good weather and uni work cast aside, we journeyed up to Aviemore on Friday night.
Dossing behind the youth hostel, we spent a cold night in the tent before our alarms blared us into action. Soggy porridge oats, the joy of slightly damp clothes, and getting showered with condensation awoke us slightly rudely, and we reached the bus stop a little chilly.
Up arriving at the ski centre car park – we set off towards Snechda. The conditions were excellent – good visibility and low temps. Dreamy. The route looked in acceptable condition – just white enough to avoid the Blackwatch. We approached the base of the route via a steep snow slope, and established a belay.
The first pitch did not set us up particularly well. I initially tried to do the standard route, which traverses across a slab. With any more build up, this would be straightforward if bold, but in these conditions it was not something I felt comfortable doing. There was no gear, only poor hooks in thin turf that felt like they could easily rip, and my feet were smearing on rounded granite – not good. I down climbed (somewhat shaken), and took the alternative start for lean conditions, a turfy corner. The initial section was unprotected, but soon there began to be some gear. Generally the climbing was straightforward, except a short step which had good gear, but was run out and the hooks were not excessively inspiring. I fought my way up this, and reached a belay to bring Lara up.
Lara made short work of the pitch, and began questing up the rib. The climbing was more enjoyable now, proper snowed up rock climbing, with good gear, and plenty of good hooks and torques. She dispatched this pitch with ease and style, and found a belay to bring me up.
I then set off up a thin slab, with good gear and satisfying torques, to reach a system of grooves and ledges leading to a belay. This was my favourite pitch of the climbing- 40m of reasonably sustained joyous movement, with plenty of gear, and hooks exactly where you need them. I’d warn of some loose blocks on this pitch, of significant size that could easily scupper someone. Due care must be taken, even in frozen conditions.
As Lara was seconding a flurry of snow came in, quickly covering everything. It was cold but joyously elemental, and an excellent day to be on the hill. Lara reached me and begun the pitch leading to the fingers – a slabby rib with a few tricky steps. This was an excellent and enjoyable pitch, with good positions and exposure. She, of course, made short work of it, and brought me up to the Fingers.
Although intimidating, the fingers were not particularly difficult, the hooks were good and by bridging between the two they could be overcome with ease. A final short, technical slab led to the top (avoidable to the left or right), where we topped out in joyous golden light. Lara was rather cold at this point, so we swiftly made moves to get off the hill.
Overall, this was a highly enjoyable route. I do not feel it merits 3*, but 2* seems appropriate. The quantity of loose blocks and the unpleasant climbing on the first pitch do sadly detract from the fantastic finale. Nevertheless – a truly excellent day in the hill.
Oscar Outdoors 