Comb Gully

The forecast was not ideal: despite the sun, the wind would be blasting across the summit of Ben Nevis at 55mph, not conducive to climbing.

Plan A was Tower Scoop into Good Friday climb – supposedly a lovely link-up of two fantastic ice routes. On the walk in – we were surprised and somewhat disappointed by how windy it was even at the CIC – some replanning would be required. It was cold…and Charlie was faffing with his layers and putting on his boots whilst I’d walked in in mine. I was quickly getting cold – and was keen to get moving.

From the CIC we saw pummels of spindrift being blown town Gardyloo gully – just next to where we’d be climbing: indicative of high winds and generally a pretty grim time. Corrie Nan Ciste looked like it was in better condition – far more sheltered and in excellent condition. As we walked up the corrie – the wind died down, and we were glad with our decision – it was going to be a fantastic day!

We headed towards Comb Gully Buttress, but upon seeing many parties already established on the route, we decided that Comb Gully would be a better choice. We soloed up to the narrows – and Charlie set off on the main pitch – a wonderful pitch with steep snow ice steps – but very minimal protection.

He cruised up the snow ice and arrived at the belay on rope stretch in an excellent lead. I had an excellent time belaying: watching Iain Small work his way up a fantastically hard mixed route with inspiring levels of skill and composure. Upon hearing Charlie’s loud bellow from above telling me I was on belay – I set off and enjoyed the wonderful climbing. I led the easy exit pitch and then we arrived on the summit plateau and navigated to the summit.

It was nearly a white out: care was required to stay on track. We reached the summit, and turned around. As I was taking bearing at Gardyloo gulley, and planning how to get to No4 – an inexperienced hiker said “First time lads”. We agreed he was a bit of a knob, and set off, following our bearing.

Just a few seconds later, we walked past him, looking rather disorientated, and continued to the 1200m contour where we would leave the cairns to reach our descent route. As we reached the contour, him and his partner sheepishly asked us for directions – we suggested he gets out his compass and follows a bearing we gave him – he did not, and began walking towards five finger gully, just a hundred metres or so away from our left and an accident black spot.

“It’s not that way mate.” Charlie said – at this point slightly concerned that these folk would get themselves into trouble. We made sure to give them robust directions to head pretty much straight down the slope, and were glad to see they eventually listened and (hopefully) made it down safely.

We swiftly navigated to no4 gully and made a fast descent – with the added excitement of seeing a very skilled skiier drop in and cruise his way down it in pretty sub-optimal conditions. Sadly for us – the snow was too hard and consolidated to allow for a safe bum slide, so we walked down the gully this time.

We had an enjoyable lunch at the CIC, and were down by 4:30. Dinner was cooked, and a beer was enjoyed – what an excellent way to spend my 20th Birthday!