A Cairngorm Explore

University is finished. The weather is good. Extestential crisis? Brewing. There are few better ways to avoid existentialism than a long walk in the mountains. I packed 5 days of food and headed out for a long walk with no real objectives other than to explore parts of the Cairngorms I haven’t been to before.

I got the familiar M90 bus up to Aviemore and after a quick lunch, the Cairngorm Explorer bus up to the ski centre. As I walked up to 1141, the familiar feeling of peace washed over me – I would not see a road again for some time and I could totally immerse myself in the mountains.

A short walk brought me to a spectacular camp spot beneath shelterstone crag – a wonderful climbing venue. I spent the evening reading and even went for a freezing dip in Loch Avon.

After a good sleep, I woke to wonderful golden light over Shelterstone. It was stunning – awe-inspiring in a way that’s hard to describe. The sense of space and enormity in this basin is in my eyes, almost unique in the UK, and perhaps can only be found elsewhere in Corrie nan Ciste on the Ben -but that feels less remote, busier and to me less special. On this morning, I felt as though I’d already found what I was seeking on this trip – true mountain beauty. To cook breakfast and have a cup of porridge with this view above was really wonderful and brought much joy.

The walk along the shores of Loch Avon itself was beautiful. I couldn’t stop looking back and as I reached the head of the loch, I went for a swim.

The rest of the walk to Faindoran lodge was a little boring – I felt as though I was leaving the mountains behind a bit and truthfully, I was. It needed to be done though to reach the sprawling Ben Avon plateau – one of the largest areas of “wilderness” in Scotland.

I broke up the journey with a short lunch stop in the bothy and by listening to some audiobooks. I began to see tors in the distance on a spur leading to the summit of Loch Avon – I decided to walk via these to the summit of Ben Avon.

After crossing a rickety ridge, the climb began, and it was hard work – with no path to follow and deep heather, each metre felt like ten. I knew it was worth it though – the struggle would only mean the rewards would be greater.

And greater they were. As I reached the top of Ben Avon I strode across the plateau across to near the summit of Beinn a Bhurd and enjoyed a perfect wild camp. I think the views speak for themselves. I didn’t see anyone else on this wonderful day in the mountains – sometimes Scotland can feel truly wild!

The next day started with a short bimble to the summit of Beinn a Bhurd itself, then the two Munros above Glen Derry: Beinn a Chorainn and Beinn Brehac. These were not the most interesting hills and the sun glaring down made it hard work. I’d forgotten my sun lotion too so felt my skin burning. It was a hard mornings work and I was glad to descend into Glen Derry.

As I reached the trees: I paused to sit on a branch, moved by the beauty of the woodland. This spot felt perfect and I relished my surroundings.

I pitched my tent just next to the bothy and had a wonderful evening talking about Continental Trekking with a lovely chap (John) in the bothy! He gave advice such as to carry a plastic bottle to fill up with wine from refuges, and how to save gas and cook with maximum efficiency. We discussed his various meetings with Royal Family members on the Mar Lodge Estate too and overall it was a very enjoyable and social evening – nice following some days alone in the mountains. I also found some sun lotion left here by another hiker – the mountain gives!

I woke up early and headed over to Cairn a Mhaimm – a beautiful Munro with an excellent ridge walk. I broke up the stiff climb with more Lord of the Rings audiobook – as I reached the top – I was listening to the battle Sam and Frodo had with Shelob. Safe to say – it added drama as I wandered across the ridge. What a wonderful morning!

My next objective was the Devil’s Point (Or Devil’s Penis if translated directly from Gaelic). I had an enjoyable lunch at Corrour and left my heavy bag there – enabling me to progress quickly up the climb. I sunbathed on the summit briefly, then progressed down.

After a rest at Corrour, the walk to Garbh Corrie Mor Refuge proved tough and tiresome. It was hard work, and the ground was boggy. I relished the challenge, singing as I went along through waist-deep heather. I was happy!

I reached the Refuge and I knew what I had found. Mountain perfection. True mountain perfection – the perfect spot to sleep. The surroundings felt alpine in scale and the spot quickly become my favourite in the UK. I made tea, and watched the world go by, still listening to Lord of the Rings

Just as I went to sleep, I was awoken by two blokes from St Andrews who had come for a small post-work adventure. It had been a long walk to do after work, taking around 3 hours from where they had left their bikes, which was an hour’s cycle from the road! Good effort!

The morning was perfect. After tea and porridge, I left the others behind and began to climb up to Loch Uaine. I was feeling light and elated, and Angels Ridge – a grade 2 scramble – only added to it! A real perfect mountain moment! Alas – it was a little windy and I did loose my sunglasses in a particularly strong gust as they were ripped of my head!

What next? Well I bimbled down onto the Moine Mhor Plateau and bagged Mondah Mor – a nice hill with fine views! I made cous cous with fried Chorizo for lunch and listened to yet more Lord of the Rings as I wondered over the Moine Mor Plateau towards Mullach Clach a Blair.

Upon reaching the summit – I subathed for a bit, before descending down to Glen Feshie, which proved to be rather heathery. I was surprised to be greeted by many campers – all TGO challengers – and had an enjoyable and sociable evening!

The last day was straightforward – just a short 20km or so into Kingussie. It was pretty walking and I even had a swim in Glen Feshie! I must admit – I was glad to be walking – the night had been cold and I woke up to frost on the tent!

I reached Kingussie and went to the coop to get some crisps. I’d been craving salty foods. I felt sad to be back in civilisation – and for once – I actually felt fresh and well rested after a long time in the mountains. This trip had been about two things: firstly achieving the wonderful clarity, peace, and happiness that can only be granted by spending day and night sleeping in wild places, and secondly to practice better self care habbits. I’m planning a 40 day walk across the Alps this August and failing to look after myself adequately will lead to me being rather uncomfortable! I’d put special effort into it this time and it had been a success!

It was also a last blast around the Cairngorms for a while. These mountains have become like a second home to me and I love them dearly. After tricky weeks and stressful times, the Cairngorms have always given me solutions – or rather given me the headspace for me to work them out. Walking around them last week felt like a love-letter to these beautiful mountains – a chance to really savour each valley and woodland and explore parts I’d missed!

Unlike many of my trips, I had no fixed goals or plans, perhaps except to sleep in Garbh Corrie Refuge. This proved remarkably enjoyable and allowed me to fall into my natural rhythm without any pressure to crunch miles, although I ended up going further than I initially thought I might!

It was a fantastic week and one I’ll look back to fondly.