Trentino – a fine destination for rock climbing. Every time I visit (most years!) I’m simply blown away by the sheer quantity and quality of the rock climbing here. The Brenta and, of course, the Presanella are my two greatest passions. The routes here are always full of friendship, beauty, and deep emotion that few other places in the world can rival. I remember the stomach-churning fear on the Ferhman route as the clouds cleared and the immense exposure of our position became clear, the cloud inversion high on Presanella, and the nights spent with Smith under boulders, cooking pasta and setting the world to rights.
But what of the valley? What of Arco? I’ve only climbed one route here before – Il Cuore di Oro, and it was truly stunning. This year, with two fine gentlemen (Fleming and Osborne), we set off to climb Via Helena, a plasir route in Arco.
For Brits reading this – I feel an explanation of the style of protection is worthwhile. Plasir Routes in Italy are often not entirely bolted. Instead, they rely on various types of fixed gear (largely threads and pegs), with the occasional bolt, still allowing climbing with a small rack. On this route, the fixed gear was abundant and in good condition, perhaps bringing a few medium and small friends would still be worthwhile for a repeat – but those confident at the grades could (as of 2026) manage without!
There isn’t much more to say, beyond it was a beautiful day on the rock with two close friends. The climbing was stunning.
I’ve linked to a route description below. I would consider splitting the second pitch into two pitches: you need about 18 quickdraws to clip every bit of gear on that pitch if you do it in one rope length! There is good thread and a bolt about 30m up the pitch, but it is alas an uncomfortable hanging stance.
https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/sanpaolo/sanpaolo.htm
